London as a Work in Progress

Leonardo's "The Virgin and Child with Saint Anne and Saint John the Baptist'

Harry and I spent my birthday in London. I really didn't know what to expect from this city I was once in love with. It was a completely different experience this time with Harry by my side. His knowledge of 19th and 20th C history creates a richer context in which to experience art. The great thing about visiting the parks and museums in London is that entrance to the permanent collection is always free.

My only disappointment (other than Easy Jet's inept attempt to get us back to Paris) was the
change of locale of my favorite drawing in the world, shown above. I once visited it on a regular basis when I was teaching in Glasgow every other summer. It was in a room all by itself - like a shrine, really. It was illuminated beautifully behind a wall of glass and a little hard to find so there weren't so many distractions when looking at it. This cartoon is bigger than two doors.
It has given me so much over the years and I was so looking forward to seeing it after four years away... and they've moved it! Its lit horribly and in the gallery with the rest of the Italian art. Its across from Leonardo's painting "Virgin of the Rocks." Sounds almost like a drink which is what I needed after seeing it in its new, sterile, academic locale. Bleh.

That wasn't a difficult request since outside the National Gallery Trafalgar Square was FILLED with Irish and Guiness loving Anglos celebrating St. Patrick's Day a few days early. London was putting on a giant FREE party for its citizens with "Hot House Flowers" and numerous other Irish bands on a giant stage with large screens on either side. I've never seen Trafalgar Square full of people, much less CHEERFUL drunk people. Harry and were both kissed on the lips by one happy young man... it was a little like Mardi Gras without the beads and the exposed boobery. A little too cold for that here... it was snowing in Scotland we learned from one of the young security men who was down from Paisley.

Trafalgar Square is surrounded by hidden pleasures. Gaby's deli in one direction, the cafe below St. Martin's in the Field on one corner, the beautiful carvings in a government building along one side (pictured below)... it was a good time to be in the city. The only thing we really missed that we wanted to experience was Ben Ellis' play. We didn't anticipate the early St. Patrick's Day activities and everything was running late. Trains, our shuttle in from Luton, etc, etc. We just didn't have enough time to get to the theatre without arriving late which is VERBOTEN in the theatre. Tardiness can be overlooked in many activities but not in the theatre. Sigh. We hated missing it but we loved drinking Guiness in Trafalgar Square surrounded by great beauty and cheer.