From the wayside, between the lines

Madrid's Botanical Garden

The train from Bilbao arrived without cause. I woke in time to wash my face and gather my belongings. (around 8am) It felt better... arriving in a station I was familiar with.* I was still on the fence about what to do... seville, cordoba or madrid? My research at Atocha proved very helpful in that regard. The fare for the high speed train was substantially higher than I was prepared to pay in my state of weariness.... more than 100 E. I decided to take a night and clear my head before C & C arrived. I gathered myself and headed north toward the Prado. If nothing else, there was always the museo and their coat check! As I grew closer to the Prado I looked left and right in search of a sign. There was a hotel to the left...too shabby and big and close to the street. As the Prado loomed closer I came to a small Plaza on the left, across the street from the Botanical Garden. It was circled by a tapas place, a wine bar and more. In the middle was a fountain and beyond that a small sign that read HOSTAL!

I walked over and rang the bell and spanish errupted from the speaker. I asked if there was a room and they buzzed me in! I opened the door to see a LIFT!!!** I went up and the man asked me if I had a reservation. no, I said and he nodded sadly and held up his hands in that universal expression of "there is nothing I can do..."
Another woman said Wait(!) would this be ok? She opened a door to a tiny room with a single bed, tiny desk, lamp, wardrobe and a sink!!! H E A V E N.

Hostal Bruna was perfect for my needs. I washed my face, changed clothes, well, rearranged what I was wearing - and left shortly therafter to taste Madrid! I purchaced the local listing, as recommended by everyone*** and began the afternoon at the botanical garden. There was an exhibition titled "25 Spanish Artists of the Future in the gallery toward the back of the garden. I'll try to post photos soon. It seemed much a like a very good MFA show though the space was great and there was definitly some work I to be enjoyed.

Afterwards I decided to walk up Paseo Prado and Recoleto ISO lunch and perhaps an art fair I found in the listing. I started ISO Cafe Guijon where artists and writers have gathered for decaded. Touristy and expensive. I found another wonderful cafe further down on Paseo Ricoleto with a menu del dias of 10 E! That included bottled water, a cafe con leche, fried cod and an excellent plate of rice and seafood. Contentment.

I continued my walk north ISO of this friggin art fair of 40 Spanish Galleries... I walked, walked and walked. After almost two hours I came upon it... ferme. Closed. A week ago. The listing was wrong. A misprint. Of course I wouldn't have known this is another artist hadn't told me. She made her way there, too. She was Spanish but spoke excellent English. She called the security guards using the number in the listing to confirm what was going on. We checked out another show that was about to open in an adjacent gallery and she pointed out the best galleries on my map. She also told me about the magic bus number 27 which would take me all the way home. Well, at least as far as the hostal!

I watched a film on my computer just to veg and went out about 11pm in search of dinner. I guess I'm turning into a Spaniard. The places close to the hostal were a little too smokey for my mood so I found a market, discovered from wonderful Spanish Sausage (NOW I understand my Hemingway was also so excited about sausage and ham... I thought he was just a manly carnivore but this stuff is the best in the world. I wonder if it is legal to bring some back to the states? We'll see.

*I'll never forget getting out at the Bilbao station. It was dark and it was raining and I had no idea which way to go or what to do. Jet lag and ambien will add to the confusion already caused by an out of date map on the walls of the station and no open toilet, info desk, etc. It was s a d. A beautiful train station with no ammenties for the Guggenhiem pilgrims... hmmm. I hope this isn't a trend.

** another good sign!

***not recommended by me!